By Erik Östling.
As described in my earlier Permanent Style piece, Vanishing Style Icons, most of my inspiration doesn’t come from social media, Substacks or Patreons, but from the older men I see on the street.
Today, I’ll use them again as examples of how to approach autumnal style. The focus in the lessons is naturally on leisure wear rather than office attire, with examples of scarves, corduroy, and three types of outerwear.
For those of us who love clothes, summer is the least rewarding season. While there is some charm in linen, wide Bermuda shorts and fisherman sandals, the warm-weather wardrobe simply doesn’t offer that many garments or accessories.
Whether because a colour analyst once told me I’m a ‘warm autumn’, or simply because, after summer, I long to wear proper clothes again, autumn is undoubtedly my favourite season.
The art of layering
Dressing in autumn is a little like painting. If summer is a white canvas, as it turns into winter colour and texture are added until the picture feels complete. Each drop in temperature brings the chance to add another layer or accessory.
Layering is both practical and satisfying, though it takes some skill to make it look good. Any Ralph Lauren boutique is usually a great source of inspiration, but older men are often masters of it too.
All the staples are familiar in these images: cardigans, pullovers, unstructured jackets, gilets or vests, but the magic is in the styling. One key lesson is to let the different layers show, as we can see on the two men above.
Everyone’s favourite accessory
Much like walking with their hands clasped behind their back, scarves are a universal favourite among older men. It is by far the most common accessory I notice, wherever I am.
The reasons are obvious. As well as keeping the neck warm (at a relatively modest cost) scarves are the best accessory to add personality to an outfit through colour, pattern or texture.
There are countless ways to wear one: the French double-fold-through-the-loop, the classic cravat knot (tucked in or on top of the jacket), the casual artist’s throw over one shoulder. I’ve even seen them worn around the waist, like a cummerbund, which is practical and surprisingly elegant.
Dressing with the seasons
I believe life feels richer when adapting to the seasons, both when it comes to what to wear and what to eat. If everything is available all year round, nothing feels special.
That’s why I have four wardrobes, one for each season, and I rotate them through the year. This means that I don’t see certain garments or fabrics for months, and I always look forward to wearing them again when I bring them back.
Wide-wale corduroy is one of those fabrics. With its soft texture and natural sheen, it is perfect for cold autumns, and has long been popular with older men.
The silhouette of the gentleman above is quite extravagant. It is defined by voluminous, high-waisted, flat-fronted corduroy trousers that divide the lower body harmoniously into two-thirds of the whole. The sky-blue shirt offsets the earthy tones, creating a balance between warm and cool colours.
Corduroy has another quality too: the way the cords catch the light creates depth and lustre, giving it an interesting character. Add a little patina and it becomes one of the most beautiful fabrics around.
The key to getting the most out of corduroy is drape. Older men often wear their trousers slightly longer, letting them rest fully on the shoe, which enhances the visual effect.
The waxed jacket
Few seasons shift as quickly as autumn, so a sensible wardrobe includes a few jackets that are both practical and refined. I’m going to talk about two obvious choices, and one wildcard.
The green waxed jacket is an autumn classic and almost a cult-like uniform for older men. As the images here show, it goes well with everything from jeans to tailoring. It’s one of those garments that ages better than almost anything else, the fabric developing an almost polished appearance over time. Most older men wisely size up to leave room for layering underneath.
This Madrid gentleman above is dressed in a style that I have noticed is very common amongst Spanish men. Navy trousers are the primary choice, unlike in many other countries, and are often paired with a lighter-coloured sports coat.
The green waxed jacket is a frequent companion to this – note the rolled-up sleeves, suggesting he has intentionally opted for a roomier fit.
Above is a perfect example of how well the green waxed jacket and blue denim work together.
Leaving the bottom three buttons undone (likely for practical rather than aesthetic reasons) cinches the jacket neatly above the waist. Worn with a semi-popped collar and simple knitted polo underneath, the styling feels instinctive and undeniably cool.
If wearing contrasting colours is the standard, tone-on-tone is more noticeable and therefore also more ‘fashionable’.
Combining the all-olive look above with two shades of blue – one denim and one melange – shows refined taste and a great understanding of the interplay between materials and textures. Personally, I also think the fit of the trousers is perfection.
The beige raincoat
The light beige coat owes its versatility to tonal contrast. It is light and neutral, yet distinctly different from the navy and grey of most suits and trousers, which is precisely why it complements them so well.
While it may not be the obvious choice for younger men, who tend to favour navy outerwear, it is a very common choice among older gentlemen.
The elegant gentleman above demonstrates how seamlessly the classic neutrals of navy, grey, beige and deep burgundy work together, balancing both high and low contrast as well as warm and cool tones. There is nothing accidental about this outfit, that’s for certain.
This man in Zurich shows how the trench coat can also be the perfect choice for more casual endeavours. Here it is worn comfortably unbelted and matched with both claret trousers and shoes, creating a playful and personal look.
The quilted jacket
A practical yet less obvious option for the early autumn months is the shorter, lightweight quilted jacket. In many cities in southern Europe, it’s a common sight on older men… and women. It’s lightweight, easy to layer, and has a casual elegance to it.
The short, sporty cut of this jacket goes really well with the pressed, almost technical-looking tapered trousers and loafers. I also like that the scarf is long and wide, becoming a defining element of the silhouette.
In contrast, this gentleman shows a more formal version of the quilted jacket, worn with a suit and tie. Longer in length with proper lapels and a welted breast pocket, it creates an understated, matte look that feels entirely cohesive.
The beauty of autumn clothing lies in how well many of the pieces work together.
The French gentleman above embodies the way older men dress for autumn, combining several of the above mentioned elements in a single outfit. When the temperature drops further, it would hardly be surprising if he were to add a slightly oversized green Barbour jacket on top of it all.
And here are a few more favourites…
