Review: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 4th generation

Our focus was mainly on two of the three colour variants introduced at launch. In total, the new Planet Ocean collection comprises seven versions, all of which are in stainless steel.

For our hands-on review, we examined the model with a blue ceramic bezel paired with a stainless steel bracelet (ref. 217.30.42.21.01.002), as well as the version featuring a black ceramic bezel matched with a black rubber strap (ref. 217.32.42.21.01.001).

This 4th generation introduces a notably substantial redesign, bringing with it a fresh aesthetic language. The changes to both the case and the bracelet are particularly striking. 

The Planet Ocean retains its unmistakable identity and core characteristics, yet the new design marks a clear departure: the forms are far more angular and sharply defined compared with the more organic lines of previous iterations. 

Omega’s intention is to enhance comfort while continuing to deliver top-tier performance.

The sharper, more angular lines of this new generation have, quite naturally for a design shift of this magnitude, prompted a range of reactions. 

While most have been positive, a few observers have noted a certain aesthetic proximity to other contemporary diver’s watches on the market. 

In this regard, it is worth remembering that these taut, angular forms are not new to Omega. They draw on historical references from earlier Seamaster models, particularly those introduced in the 1980s and 1990s.

Focusing on comfort, the case diameter has been reduced to 42 mm – a size that feels almost ideal for a diver’s watch. 

To enhance wearability even further, the thickness has also been brought down to just 13.79 mm, a significant improvement over the 16.1 mm of the previous generation. 

This has been achieved by introducing a flat sapphire crystal on the dial side and by streamlining the entire case architecture – the profile, the bezel and the overall construction. 

A solid screw-down caseback in Grade 5 titanium also plays a key role.

While some may regret losing the view of the movement, this choice clearly serves the watch’s purpose: reducing thickness, lowering weight and increasing overall robustness. 

The caseback itself features the classic wave-edged design with engraved Planet Ocean and Seamaster markings, as well as the depth rating. At the centre sits the iconic Omega Seahorse emblem, adding a final touch of character.

The bold design of the new models is highlighted by alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces. 

The screw-down crown, protected by robust guards, has two positions after unscrewing it: in position 1, the hour hand moves in 1-hour increments without altering minutes and seconds; in position 2, time can be adjusted.

The 4th generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean no longer features the Helium Escape Valve (HEV) traditionally positioned at 10 o’clock, marking a significant architectural shift after defining the line for two decades. 

This decision is the result of advances in case construction derived from the development of the Ultra Deep models. 

The new Planet Ocean adopts a two-part case structure built around an inner titanium ring that substantially increases the rigidity of the entire case, minimising microscopic pathways for helium during saturation diving and making a separate valve unnecessary.

Performance remains uncompromised. The combination of the inner titanium ring and the solid Grade 5 titanium caseback ensures the watch continues to meet its 60 bar (600 metre / 2,000 feet) depth rating without the need for a valve.

Since the inner ring was already an aesthetic feature of the Planet Ocean in 2005, the new titanium ring not only provides a functional benefit but also contributes to preserving the original visual identity.

Featuring a polished ceramic [ZrO2] insert in black, blue or orange depending on the reference, the unidirectional counter-clockwise bezel rotates precisely thanks to its 120 smooth clicks. 

The orange insert features a white hybrid ceramic diving scale, while the black and blue inserts are filled with a white enamel diving scale.

Each dial in the new Planet Ocean collection is matte black, against which the signature arrowhead hands stand out clearly.

Although the change is subtle, the four Arabic numerals (3, 6, 9 and 12) are now open-worked and squarer, with a sharper look to match the case and bracelet. It is also a nod to the original Planet Ocean, which likewise featured open-worked numerals. 

For enhanced legibility in low light, the hands, hour markers and bezel diving scale are treated with white Super-LumiNova that emits a blue glow, while the minute hand and the bezel’s dot glow green to ensure immediate orientation. An antireflective treatment is applied to both sides of the sapphire crystal.

We personally appreciated Omega’s decision to forgo a date window on this model to preserve its more technical, instrument-like appearance, although this remains a matter of personal preference.

The watches are driven by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912, a state-of-the-art movement, also used for the Ultra Deep, that beats at the frequency of 3.5 Hz (25,200 vibrations per hour) and guarantees at least 60 hours of power reserve. 

Each Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is Master Chronometer certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS).

In order to earn this distinction, the finished watches – not just the movement – are tested for their precision, during and after exposure to magnetic fields greater than 15,000 Gauss, for autonomy and for water resistance. 

The exceptional performance in terms of resistance to magnetic fields is possible thanks to the free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring equipping the movements.

The updated case architecture necessitated a complete redesign of the bracelet. Uniquely integrated into the lugs, it features a slimmer profile with flat links arranged in three rows: two brushed outer rows flanking a central polished row. 

The clasp is equally refined, featuring a polished central section amidst satin-brushed surfaces, and includes Omega’s diver extension with six-position micro-adjustment.

While a fully satin-brushed finish might have been our preference for a tool watch, we must admit the contrasting polish makes the timepiece particularly eye-catching.

The rubber strap features a structured aesthetic with a central channel of horizontal ridges bordered by smooth matte edges and is connected to the case via a stainless steel link. It is secured by a compact stainless steel foldover clasp with push-button release. 

The “tuck-under” design hides the strap tail against the wrist, eliminating external keepers for a streamlined..