I thought readers would find this interesting. Ben Clarke, the bespoke cutter who made me an excellent jacket and waistcoat while he was at Richard James, has set up in Brighton under the name Atelier Tyzack and is using two slightly different cuts, each somewhere between a British structured style and a soft southern Italian one.

He asked me to help him put together a video for his website explaining the ideas behind them, and the differences. This is the video, and I think interesting is:

• The fact he wanted to create two unique cuts, rather than just ape the Neapolitan
• How expensive it is to do that, and virtually impossible at most houses that use external coatmakers
• Why he thinks high armholes are less relevant than they used to be (I agree)
• How he prefers displacing the shoulder seam forwards
• The different ways he builds the canvas for each type

The jacket on the mannequin on the left is his more structured (or North) cut. It is similar to the jacket Ben cut me previously. The one on the right is an example of the softer (South) cut and is something I’ll probably try next time with him.

For anyone that is particularly interested in seeing me break down those two jackets, we start doing so at 23:40.

Ben does appointments in London as well as Brighton and will be up on July 20th to do the next one, using our showroom. His contact is here.