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Jewelry businesses are currently using “generative artificial intelligence” (GenAI) for everything from creating designs to writing copy to forecasting trends. However, using the technology carries certain legal risks, a new CIBJO Special Report warns.
For one, there are possible problems with copyright law.
The U.S. Copyright Office protects work created by humans, or at least work where “a human remains the creative decision-maker,” says Sara Yood, president of CIBJO’s Ethics Commission.
But there’s no protection when AI does it all.
“Since GenAI cannot be an author for the purposes of copyright, there is also a real risk to using it for jewelry design,” says the report. “Any design made solely using GenAI cannot qualify for copyright protection, leaving it available for anyone to use.”
Likewise, while GenAI can “be intentionally used to design items closely ‘inspired by’ other designers,” the report warns “there’s simply not enough case law yet to truly understand where being inspired by other work crosses the line into infringement.”
For this reason, “prompts requesting a design ‘in the style of’ a named designer or specific brand should not be used,” it says.
The CIBJO Ethics Commission recommends that jewelry companies adopt a Workplace AI Policy, which includes the following:
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Having at least one person in the business oversee the use of AI.
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Prohibiting unauthorized copying and deliberate imitation.
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Disclosing GenAI use when it affects “authorship, authenticity, or consumer expectations.”
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Not letting AI “misrepresent a product’s design, materials, craftsmanship, or provenance.”
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Remembering that AI has a “significant environmental impact.”
The full CIBJO report can be seen here.
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Anglo CEO says no De Beers buyer has been chosen; “uncertainty” remains
Anglo American CEO Duncan Wanblad told Bloomberg yesterday that his company hasn’t yet chosen a buyer to take over its 85% stake in De Beers, after he was asked to confirm reports that it picked the Global Diamond Consortium led by former CEO Gareth Penny.
“We’re not exclusive with anybody yet,” he said. “And what I’m doing is working with all the parties to optimize the outcome.”
He added that Anglo has made “great progress” in selling the business and the process is “pretty close to the end.”
He then cautioned: “This is exactly the time in the process when things are very delicate. So a number of parties have to all get together, have to all agree, and ultimately sign on the dotted line. But [it’s] looking good for getting it done, ideally somewhere between now and the end of this year.”
Despite Wanblad’s seeming optimism, Anglo American’s half-year financial report notes on page 14 that “there remains considerable uncertainty around the timing, terms, legal structure, and regulatory approvals for a [De Beers] transaction.”
As a result, De Beers is no longer being classified as “held for sale,” it said.
“That’s an accounting provision,” says analyst Paul Zimnisky. “It could indicate that the sales process is not as far along as we would hope. I think the intergovernmental relationships really make this a complex transaction.”
Wanblad later told South Africa’s Business Day that the uncertainty refers to “all the potential buyers [we have] in the form of a consortium…
“There is also an enormous amount of alignment between the consortium’s partners that needs to happen. We also have the government of Botswana that has a right of first refusal. So technically we can’t be certain that this deal is going to happen any time soon. However, we continue to make progress.”
So if a deal doesn’t come together, what will happen? Wanblad told analysts yesterday during its earnings call that it wasn’t considering a De Beers IPO.
“We don’t think that the market has capacity for a listing of De Beers at this particular point in time,” he said. “We probably got there a good few months ago, to be honest with you. That was also helpfully supported by the fact that we had some real traction in the divestment process with a number of parties that were all deeply strategic type of partners.”
He said that Anglo might “revisit” that, if it needed to, but right now it’s looking at a “trade sale.”
S&P: Mountain Province is headed for “restructuring” or “default”
S&P Global Ratings raised its credit rating on Mountain Province Diamonds—De Beers’ junior partner in the Gahcho Kue mine—to ‘CCC-‘ from ‘SD’ (selective default)—but said that a “default or distressed restructuring is inevitable within the next few months.”
It added:
The company had minimal cash on its balance sheet as of March 31, 2026, and no availability under its credit facilities. Moreover, we don’t expect any meaningful cash-flow generation in the near term because of challenging diamond market conditions. In our view, [Mountain Province] remains vulnerable and dependent on improved operating and financial results to service and repay its debt and financial obligations. We believe the company is facing a liquidity shortfall in the near term and is in discussion with its lenders on a possible comprehensive debt restructuring plan.
Worth a click
Jeweller magazine in Australia takes a thorough look at the colorful career of Jesper Kasi Nielsen, the former Pandora executive who reportedly just lost a lawsuit against his old company. The article includes his ill-fated attempt to start a multi-level marketing company, which I covered for JCK.
Wise weekend watch
Anthropologist Jennifer Grace looks at “why humans invented jewelry.”
“Jewelry is evidence that humans have always thought symbolically,” she says. “Humans don’t just make practical things. We make meaningful things. We create symbols and tell stories through objects.”
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Today’s daily jewelry links cover Ekati, Desert Diamonds, QVC, Jewelers of America, Lugano Diamonds, Richemont, Bulgari, Rick Domeier, Lauren Harwell Godfrey, Antonio Massimo Tucci, Madison Beer, and a jewelry-stealing rat.
