The new Oris Star Edition marks the 60th anniversary of a pivotal moment in the brand’s history, when it introduced its first watch equipped with a lever escapement.
More than a simple revival, the model reflects a turning point reached in 1965, when Oris secured the freedom to develop its own mechanical movements after decades of regulatory constraints.
For much of the mid-20th century, the Swiss watch industry operated under the Swiss Watch Statute, introduced in the 1930s to stabilise the sector during the economic turmoil of the Great Depression.
While effective in limiting destructive competition, the law also restricted innovation, preventing certain manufacturers from producing lever escapement movements. Oris was among the companies affected, confined to less precise pin-lever calibres.
A decisive shift came through the efforts of Rolf Portmann, who joined Oris in 1956 and led a decade-long legal battle against the so-called “watch cartel”. In 1965, these restrictions were lifted, allowing the brand to pursue mechanical development freely.
A vintage print advertisement for the Oris Star, circa 1960s
The following year, Oris introduced the original Star, its first watch with a lever escapement movement, making it the first model to emerge from this newly regained independence.
The Star Edition revisits that 1966 watch with a design that remains closely aligned with the original. The stainless steel case measures 35 mm in diameter, with a thickness of 11.10 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 41.50 mm.
Its barrel-shaped profile, with lugs integrated into the case, reflects the modernist aesthetic that emerged during the 1960s, when traditional round gold watches began to give way to more experimental forms.
The dial follows the same restrained approach. Finished in silver, it features applied baton hour markers and square-tipped hands, both filled with Super-LumiNova to ensure legibility.
Period-correct details include the “Star”, “Automatic” and “26 Jewels” inscriptions, along with an asymmetrical date window positioned at 3 o’clock.
A plexi-crystal reinforces the vintage character, while the overall layout remains clean and balanced.
Inside the case is the Oris Calibre 733 (base Sellita SW 200-1), a 4 Hz self-winding movement delivering a power reserve of approximately 41 hours.
It drives central hours, minutes and seconds, along with an instantaneous date function and a stop-seconds mechanism for precise time setting.
The case back, secured by screws, is engraved with the historic Oris Shield crest, further linking the watch to its origins.
Water resistance is rated at 5 bar (50 metres / 166 feet), and the watch is fitted with a black leather strap secured by a pin buckle.
The overall construction reflects a pragmatic approach consistent with the brand’s history, combining everyday usability with a design rooted in a specific period.
Introduced at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the Oris Star Edition (ref. 01 733 7813 4151-Set) is not a limited series and will be available from May at the suggested retail price of CHF 1,800 / €1,800 / US$2,300. oris.ch
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